Island

Everything is prepared. All paperwork is done but the prediction does not seem favourable. Still I decide to leave Gibraltar now: my eldest son gets married and the flight to the wedding is booked from Tunisia.So far so good. Our first passage on the Mediterranean sea starts with a little breeze from the East so the course past Europa point is set in the direction of Malaga. Then a tack in the direction of Marocco to cross the busy shipping lane.

At arrival on Sao Vincente, one of the Cape Verde Islands, we anchor under sail in the motor vessel anchorage as the engine does not seem to be working well. After arrival we go ashore to check in and discover that it is Canaval! Everything is closed as the whole town is watching the parade this afternoon. We eat, watch the scenery and relax in a Spanish restaurant. Beside French tourists there are many locals of Creole, Chinese, African and Indian roots looking at the colourfull parade, a true mishmash of people.

The kind lady of port control checked us out on Friday as our plan was to leave Ascension Island on the Sunday for our passage to the Mindelo on Sao Vincente, one of the Cape Verde islands. This will be our longest passage so far, 1700 miles in a straight line, more than 20 days of sailing. We will go north first crossing the doldrums, the zone around the equator where the tradewind will change from south-east to nearly zero then turning to north-east.

It only took 5 days to cover the 710nm between st Helena and Ascension island,the easiest sail ever! Ascension is a Brittish overseas territory, like st Helena. The island has a RAF airfield and a US base with advanced radar and communication equipment for the US space program. Obtaining a visa must be done in advance, an administrative process that requires each visitor to provide proof of medical and repatriation insurance.

Welcome to Saint Helena! the anchorage is directly on the ocean The small island St Helena is a rock rising up sharply from the 5000m deep ocean seafloor in the middle of the southern atlantic ocean. It was discovered by the Portugese and ruled by the Dutch VOC before it became an important Brittish overseas territory: before the invention of motor driven ships all North going sailing vessels called at the island to provision.

Ha! We got ourselves a seat on the first row. A cannon fires and the Capetown to St Helena race has begun Why leave? Just stay and enjoy the beauties of South Africa. No, it is time to go, the race is ON, I must face the ocean, this is what I have to do. Understood, but you can do that also later, why go now?…No, see you South Africa, it is very hard to leave…

We stay 2 weeks in our paradise Bazaruto Island because it is so nice but also because we decide to skip the first weather window to repair the mainsail car of Umandum. Most of the other sailboats leave so even more paradise for us. In the tropics we do not see any change in barometric pressure except the daily heating of the sun. Here the barometer really makes sense: if the pressure falls rapidly a low is approaching!

Bazaruto Island is a big sand dune on the east side of the Bazaruto archipelago of islands and reefs. The entire area is a nature reserve. To reach the anchorage on west side we must pass a narrow channel between 2 reefs. The dunes protect against high winds except northwestherlies. all ships waiting for a weather window in the lee of Bazaruto Island When we go ashore some guys welcome us with a big smile at their local bar.

The next day Des informs us that we can go, at least the 700 miles until Bazaruto Island in Mozambique. Our speed must be minimum 5 knots as there is a south westerly low expected in a few days. That should be no problem if we find the south going Mozambique current which gives us a “push” in the good direction of 2 knots. There are several strategies, one is to find the Mozambique current first by going west before south, a detour but finding the current early makes up for extra distance.

The sail from from Russian bay is magnificent, there are many beautifull islands on this route and many cruisers explore this area. We glide gently on a steady seabreeze. When approaching Majunga which is at a major river mouth the water turns red! This is the sad result of cutting and burning the forests in the inland. Now there is nothing left holding the soil in place so every time it rains the fertile soil washes away and rivers turn red.