We arrived in Atuona on the next island Hiva Oa in the morning after a slow but very pleasant night sail.
Busy! Some 30 yachts and the supply+cruise ship Aranui 5 in port, so we anchored outside. The Aranui 5 departs in Tahiti and you can get a ticket: only 1100 euro for a ten day trip around all the islands. Fun uh!
We leave our beautifull anchorage in Puamau just before sunset.
My Irish daughter Holly read an interesting article in Nat Geo about how Ua Huka has more animals than people . With wild horses, pigs, goats and cockerels roaming in lush green (like Ireland) forrest she feels this is her kind of place! She is of course invited.
It was an easy sail from Hatiheu back to Taioae. An essential stop to swap English reading books at Kevins, to stock up at the supermarkets and buy fresh vegetables from the market. All done. Time to leave Nuku Hiva. We look forward to sail to the next island Ua Pou.
We anchored behind the reef at Arue to buy 25kg of flour, to do shopping at Carrefour and to have the mizzen sail repaired by our neighbour on a yellow trimaran. He is a very skilled sailmaker and it turns out he likes playing a game of chess too!
The Society islands all have a barrier reef around them and there are only a few places where there is a narrow passage though the reef, called a ‘passe’. After a night on anchor behind the reef in Vaiare in 2 meters of water we sail through Passe Vaiare at Moorea to Tahiti.
Time to leave the busy anchorage behind the reef at Opunohu bay on the island of Moorea and sail overnight to Maupiti, 170 nautical miles. This will be Nicolas first nightsail since he is on board and we both look forward to the new adventure. The plan is to sail to Maupiti first and then to Bora Bora.
Tahaa and Raiatea are special: 2 islands surrounded by one barrier reef. The water of the lagoon is deep on most places so one can sail almost around both islands inside the reef. There is a beautifull shallow coral garden near motu TauTau at the west side of Tahaa so time for more snorkling.
Huahine is the last island to visit before sailing back to Tahiti. Looking very much forward to explore another lush and green island for more walking and snorkeling in the lagoons and passes. The wind in this area is mostly moderate and from the east, so sailing west is sailing against the wind.
Sailing against the tradewind on the biggest ocean of the planet is no small thing, it needs to be carefully planned. So I studied and found a suitable window where a moderate wind turned slightly to the southeast which gives a better angle when sailing close haul against wind and current.
If a paradise exists then Anaho comes close. I had the privilege to stay on anchor in Anaho bay for more than six weeks while enjoying the unspoiled environment. No roads, cars or shops here. Just a restaurant, a church and a few houses. Transport is done on horseback or by boat.
Stella spent a very rewarding three months at her daughters house in the UK helping out with two of her grandchildren: 5 month old Billy and one year old Connor. It was 42 hours of travelling halfway across world to get back home to the boat. But that was not as tiring as expected and that comes in handy.
Time to explore the last -for us- unknown Marquesian island, Tahuata. The northeast wind is favourable for sailing there from Nuku Hiva. A wonderfull sail through the full moon night. We arrive near Hanamoenoa in the early morning light after the contours of Hivao Oa and Tahuata have appeared.
A plan to sail to Tahuata for a change did not work, no favourable winds. So are still in Ua Pou at Hakahetau bay with a new plan to anchor in the port of Hakahau on the windy east side as the trade wind has dropped significantly. Hakahau has a good supermarket to stock up for the upcoming passage.
A wonderfull time, nine months in French Polynesia ends. The latest weather prediction promises that the trade winds pick up and bring us to Tonga, 1280 nautical miles west, either to Niuatoputapu island or Neiafu in the Vava’u group. Time to go through the pass to the open sea before the wind starts…
The sail from Niuatoputapu island to Neiafu in the Vava’u group is on. But there actually is a lot more wind than predicted. In Port Maurelle a sailor said this is due a local compression zone that is often present near Tonga. Other sailors reported 60 knots of wind on their short passage from Niue to Vava’au.