Indian Ocean

After 3 colourfull days in Mafia Island (pitty we did not see the walesharks) we leave for Mtwara, another upwind passage. Halfway we anchor at Mzungu Beach for the night after making contact with those at home to inform them where we are. The passage itself is boring, most time motoring as there is no wind. But finally the fishing pays off! Too bad, a strange unknown fish so we will not eat it.

We arrive in the evening from Mesali island at Dar Es Salaam slipway, an anchorage at a former boat yard converted to a western style hotel with shopping mall and restaurants. It is a good place to introduce newcomers to Africa, the airport is only 20 minutes away, a big supermarket and a good medical facility is 2 minutes away and it is also convenient to do some work on your ship here as there are many hardware shops near Slipway.

Back in Tanga after a wonderfull week with my big family in Zeeland at the North sea. Its September again…That was the time I arrived last year in Tanga from Madagascar, its now time to leave. I agreed last time with a sailfriend from Tanga that we would go with 2 ships from Tanga to Madagascar. And so glad my other sailfriend comes again! Our route will pass Dar Es Salaam so I pick her up and get new batteries at the same time.

Fellow sailors Jaques and Stephan told me that a member of the Tanga Yacht club organises swimwalks on a regular basis. Swimwalk, I asked? Just come and experience it. Lets go now, hurry, hurry because the tide will soon be favourable . There are pick-pickies waiting at the corner. We arrive in Mwambani near the shore and under the guidance of member Sibylle we start the “swimwalk”: First a walk through salt plains and mangroves ( a variety of bushes and trees that grow in salt water) then into the muddy water while swimming and floating through canals lined with mangroves.

Malaka Queen is back in Dar Es Salaam slipway. This time to pick up a friend from Holland and his son. They will come on holiday for a few weeks to explore Tanzania and the Zanzibar archipelago. They have marine spare parts with them so they will have heavy luggage. As always Ruben, taxi driver from Dar Es Salaam will drive me to the airport. At arrival there is a little problem with customs.

We, a friend who also has her ship in Tanga had tried many times to sail together. It never worked,for various reasons. This time we will succeed as I came back earlier from Holland! We will first explore Tanga as fishermen spotted 2 hippopotamus and a baby, dangerous animals, still we are curious. We search the area with the dinghy… We sail and anchor at Ras Nungwe in the North of Zanzibar.

Now it is time to fullfill my promise to bring a female sailor of the Tanga sailing club to Chumbe Island as a favour for all she did for us. We will go there first then I sail to Dar Es Salaam to pick up my friend at the airport. Malaka Queen on anchor near Chumbe Island Chumbe island is a nature reserve and zero emission eco-lodge. The lodge uses only rain water which is collected via a special roof construction and kept in cisterns under the 7 houses and the central building.

With 3 fellow sailors on board we sail from Tanga to Njao gap at Pemba Island. Another ship sails with us at the same time. We are lucky, we catch a nice golden dorade on the way, fish for dinner!

One evening in the bar of Tanga Yachtclub I spot a new group of 8 who just have arrived on a small boat. It looks like they had a tough time sailing upwind to Tanga. We start talking. They are German and Swiss and came from Dar Es Salaam and will go back tomorrow to celebrate newyear in Ras Nungwe in the North of Zanzibar. But they are clearly not happy to be all together on the little boat.

Back on the ship after 2 months in Holland via Dar Es Salaam with 40 kilo of marine parts! So glad to find it back in good condition on its mooring. The watchmen looked after it well. I meet my sailfriends, the bartenders and the drinkers again in the bar of Tanga Yacht Club. Stephan says: we all go up to the farm on the mountain in Moheze for Christmas, come!