🇫🇯️ Makogai, Levuka and Astrolabe reef

Makogai lies 130 nautical miles west of Vanua Mbalavu. We sailed quickly with the wind behind us at 6-7 knots through the night. It was just getting light when we arrived at Makogai. After carefully navigating through the narrow pass in the coral reef we arrived in the lagoon in front of a village.

A friendly sailor from a catamaran came to us and warned us where not to anchor because there are some large coral bummies.

First Sevusevu when coming ashore. The stranger brings kava, the root of a plant, as a gift for the chief of the village. A ceremony follows, prayers in Fiji and clapping with chubby hands. We were given permission to visit the village and land under his protection.

We were shown around by the children of the village. The chief’s 8 and 12 year old children climb the papaya and coconut trees, drop a few coconuts down and chop off the top with a machete to give us food and drink. First visit is the cemetery. Makogai was the only leprosy colony in the South Pacific until 1969. 1500 people, patients and caregivers (nuns and missionaries French, English, German from monasteries in our area) are buried here. Houses, central accommodations and even a cinema to make the lives of leprosy patients as bearable as possible. Second visit is the local prison and they show us several churches all in ruins while the jungle takes over. The kids also gave us sprouting coconut. The water inside is then replaced by a kind of sweet foam. Tasty.

It is a small village, only two families live here. Over the last 30 years giant clams and turtles have been bred here with varying degrees of success. A nature project. Hardly any plastic on this island. Pure nature. We then walked to the southern tip of the island on an overgrown road (railway line?) and came across more abandoned houses. Here each ethnic group had its own leprosy colony. Everywhere you meet very kind people and those children where great!

It’s Saturday and we have come in to get fresh produce at the stalls on the seafront and see the old slaver capital of Fiji. We successfully got ashore through the small waves where we where greeted by the harbour master and after a chat with the friendly customs officer who could not see our Fiji flag we promised to purchase another one.

We are laden though with fresh food, and hungry so we find an Indian place to eat called Kumars Kozy Kafe, pretty good for Fiji and while we patiently wait, she makes veg food specially for us.

Meanwhile the preacher across the road is really bible bashing on a loud speaker. I am so glad its easy for me to zone it out . Words like repent and mercy and angels keep squeezing through.The spirits of the party people of the past still linger here somewhere.These days there are more churches than bars sadly.

In between the colors and the drabbery memories of english colonialism stand proud and quaint. The seebreeze keeps the many Levukians cool . The preacher is taken over by piano and singing. There is really no getting away from it.

Sevusevu in Fiji seems to vary. It is an exchange of cava for the welcome and protection from the village. Here in Nabouwalu on Ono island,Astrolabe reef, Kurroo took us for a walk after unceremoniously taking cava from us explaining that the cheif was out and he would give it to him when he got back. Fine with us! We showed him our suloos(long skirts) a black and red one for Stefan and more muted purple for Stella to show how committed we are to their customs. We all laugh. Kurro is easy to like, he is laid back and quick to smile . He took time to answer any questions we had and was generous with his time. We are joined by a ’naughty ’ boy Wanga who has a winning smile but refuses to go to school with all the other children. Well you always have one don t we? He will find find his gifts without the help of school I hoped quietly to myself. Kurro kept giving more, you like bread fruit ? Here have two, or three. Pawpaw? Green coconuts? Take more. Bananas ? Pumpkin? We are humbled. Not only do we go for relaxed conversation and a potter around the village and beach but he gives me a name to the magical, I knew they were special, rock hard seed pods that clack so pleasingly when banged together. They have been intriguing me all month. Waagai is the name of the vine they come from.These brown hard oversized buttons are used for bracelets and anklets to make music during ceremonial dances. So now we know.

We left the Amel Mari alone in Mbuala Bay Kandava . Time spent being their neighbours and on the doorstep of the tiny immaculate village was extremely peaceful. Great sevusevu experience receiving so much more we felt than we gave. Kurru gave us fruit and veg from their gardens and walked and talked with us a bit in the mangroves and along the beach. Him with one foot in the ocean and one on land, quiet strong and content, a tall man. We learnt the name that morning for the special Waagai buttons which are used in dance ceremony for their decorative and musical value. Next destination Denereaux for the good shop up the river before we meet Sarah and Andrew at First Landing Saturday morning . That’s an expected 20 hour sail eta 7.30 am Friday.