Makogai lies 130 nautical miles west of Vanua Mbalavu. We sailed quickly with the wind behind us at 6-7 knots through the night. It was just getting light when we arrived at Makogai. After carefully navigating through the narrow pass in the coral reef we arrived in the lagoon in front of a village.

A friendly sailor from a catamaran came to us and warned us where not to anchor because there are some large coral bummies.

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First Sevusevu when coming ashore. The stranger brings kava, the root of a plant, as a gift for the chief of the village. A ceremony follows, prayers in Fiji and clapping with chubby hands. We were given permission to visit the village and land under his protection.

We were shown around by the children of the village. The chief’s 8 and 12 year old children climb the papaya and coconut trees, drop a few coconuts down and chop off the top with a machete to give us food and drink. First visit is the cemetery. Makogai was the only leprosy colony in the South Pacific until 1969. 1500 people, patients and caregivers (nuns and missionaries French, English, German from monasteries in our area) are buried here. Houses, central accommodations and even a cinema to make the lives of leprosy patients as bearable as possible. Second visit is the local prison and they show us several churches all in ruins while the jungle takes over. The kids also gave us sprouting coconut. The water inside is then replaced by a kind of sweet foam. Tasty.

It is a small village, only two families live here. Over the last 30 years giant clams and turtles have been bred here with varying degrees of success. A nature project. Hardly any plastic on this island. Pure nature. We then walked to the southern tip of the island on an overgrown road (railway line?) and came across more abandoned houses. Here each ethnic group had its own leprosy colony. Everywhere you meet very kind people and those children where great!

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Before we know its time to leave. Let`s sail to..... Levuka on the island Ovalau

It’s Saturday and we have come in to get fresh produce at the stalls on the seafront and see the old slaver capital of Fiji. We successfully got ashore through the small waves where we where greeted by the harbour master and after a chat with the friendly customs officer who could not see our Fiji flag we promised to purchase another one.

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Look our new flag!

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Then we were able to have a little explore. It's got real character this historical town.
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We are laden though with fresh food, and hungry so we find an Indian place to eat called Kumars Kozy Kafe, pretty good for Fiji and while we patiently wait, she makes veg food specially for us.
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Meanwhile the preacher across the road is really bible bashing on a loud speaker. I am so glad its easy for me to zone it out . Words like repent and mercy and angels keep squeezing through.The spirits of the party people of the past still linger here somewhere.These days there are more churches than bars sadly.

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Levuka is colorful and shabby. In some places derelict
In between the colors and the drabbery memories of english colonialism stand proud and quaint. The seebreeze keeps the many Levukians cool . The preacher is taken over by piano and singing. There is really no getting away from it.
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the hills embrace the town, it reminds me of the Marquesas