🇫🇯️ Great Astrolabe Reef

From Levuka we sail to Astrolabe reef to get a glimpse of it before sailing back to Denarau Viti Levu Fiji. A cruiser in Fiji told us that there are big manta’s to see in the narrow channel between Drawaqua island and Navita island and hopefully we will still have time time to explore Ono and Kandavu.

We go on land at Ono island for the sevusevu ceremony. This ceremony involves a gift of kava in exchange for welcome and protection. There is a bit of clapping and thigh slapping completing the ceremony.

In this case we made a small contribution for the construction of a village farmacy. Here in Nabouwalu on Ono island at Astrolabe reef Kurroo took us for a walk after unceremoniously taking cava from us explaining that the chief was out and he would give it to him when he got back. Fine with us! We showed him our sulu’s (a sulu is a long cloth wrapped around the waist and it looks like a skirt) a black and red one for Stefan and more muted purple for Stella to show how committed we are to their customs.

We all laugh. Kurro is easy to like, he is laid back and quick to smile . He took time to answer any questions we had and was generous with his time. We are joined by a ’naughty ’ boy Wanga who has a winning smile but refuses to go to school with all the other children. Well you always have one don t we? He will find find his gifts without the help of school I hoped quietly to myself.

Kurro kept giving more: you like bread fruit? Here have two, or three. Pawpaw? Green coconuts? Take more. Bananas ? Pumpkin? We are humbled. Not only do we go for relaxed conversation and a potter around the village and beach but he gives me a name to the magical, I knew they were special, rock hard seed pods that clack so pleasingly when banged together. They have been intriguing me all month. Waagai is the name of the vine they come from.These brown hard oversized buttons are used for bracelets and anklets to make music during ceremonial dances. So now we know.

Time spent being their neighbours and on the doorstep of the tiny immaculate village was extremely peaceful. Great sevusevu experience receiving so much more we felt than we gave. Kurru gave us fruit and veg from their gardens and walked and talked with us a bit in the mangroves and along the beach. Him with one foot in the ocean and one on land, quiet strong and content, a tall man.

We learnt the name that morning for the special Waagai buttons which are used in dance ceremony for their decorative and musical value. Next destination Denarau for the good shop up the river before we meet Sarah and Andrew at First Landing saturday morning. That’s an expected 20 hour sail eta 7.30 am Friday.