We anchored behind the reef at Arue to buy 25kg of flour, to do shopping at Carrefour and to have the mizzen sail repaired by our neighbour on a yellow trimaran. He is a very skilled sailmaker and it turns out he likes playing a game of chess too!
In the morning we rowed the short distance from the boat to the lighthouse at Pointe Venus over the shallows avoiding bommies, some call them potatoes. About 2 km to the U supermarket in Mahina. They had everything and more. We got great coffee beans from Brazil and Columbia to try.
On the way back we were stopped by friendly locals and bought bananas and papaya from them. They had star-apples and soursop too. A man was playing a small guitar, maybe a ukelele? He had lemons for sale all tidily bagged up. This place strikes us as a pleasant mix of Polynesia and France and so it should be! I discover what “Neem” is, kinda like spring rolls. Yum.
Approaching Moorea you see a long stunning pale sandy beach. Lush green shoulders of forrest sloping upwards to cloud capped peaks. The day’s sailing had been perfect, sticking out a little genoa and easing gracefully across the 27 miles of sea in about four hours.
It is very easy to get into Opunohu bay through the wide gap in the reef. But there is no room to anchor where my finger is. We count more than 34 sailing boats in that small area. So we turn starboard instead of port in the hope there will be room for us on the other side. Negotiating the narrow channel is a nice challenge. All goes well. The channel ends at a 2 meter deep tiny patch of sand surrounded by coral heads. 10 other boats are already on anchor there…..
We try to anchor very close to a few of them using only 10m of chain. I jump in the water to check our anchor and for nearby bommies or coral heads. What a pity, its too close for comfort. If the wind turns we are on the coral. Captain decides: too risky, we cannot stay here overnight. How ironic…but maybe I see this wrong….intensive farming, diary and meat are the number one cause of methane emissions which is the largest contributor to global warming and that sits right next to a research center that tries to find way to stop coral from dying, one of the effects of global warming, both EU funded